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How To Winterize Your Boat

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Winterizing your boat is the single most important
maintenance duty that you will have to perform as a boat
owner. If it is done correctly, very little work will be
required to get the boat ready for the water in the spring.
Proper winterization greatly extends the life of the boat
and its engine by protecting its components from freezing,
corrosion and lying idle for long periods.

The first step in the winterization process is to ensure
that the boat's fuel tank is full - leave just a little room
for expansion - and add fuel stabilizer in accordance with
the instructions on the product. If the fuel tank isn't full
you run the risk of condensation forming within the tank
which can lead to corrosion and clogging.

Turn off fuel valves and seal through-hull exhaust ports
with duct tape. Replace the water separator and the fuel
filter.

Protecting Your Engine

Run the engine for a while to warm it up and change the oil
while it's warm. This allows many of the impurities in the
oil to be drained away. Change the oil filters. If your
engine uses coolant drain the current fluid from the engine
block and manifolds and replace it with a propylene glycol
based antifreeze.

When a boat is not being used, oil tends to settle at the
bottom of the engine block, exposing the pistons and valves
to air, humidity and other corrosive materials. To avoid
this situation remove the spark plugs and spray fogging
oil inside the carburetor and into each cylinder. Replace
the spark plugs without reconnecting the wires.

Replace the engine's old gear oil with fresh oil. Dispose of
any used oil at an authorized recycling center.

Outboards

Flush outboard engines with fresh water. Allow all water to
drain from the engine and wash down the engine with soap and
water. Disconnect the fuel hose and run the engine until it
stops. It is important to ensure that all fuel is drained
from the carburetor. Use fogging oil in the cylinders. Apply
water resistant grease to propeller shaft and threads, and
lightly lubricate the exterior of the engine or polish with
a quality wax. Change the gear oil in the lower unit.

If your boat will be stored out of the water during the off
season, disconnect the battery and store it at home. Boats
left in the water should have the battery left in place on
board and functioning so the bilge pump will continue to
function if required. If you are removing the battery from
the boat, ensure it is fully charged before stowing it away.
Recharge every 30-60 days or keep on a trickle charger
during the storage period and check the water level from
time to time.

It is also sensible to remove any valuable marine
electronics from the boat for the winter, and to store this
equipment in a safe place to avoid theft and possible damage
caused by temperature changes and humidity. The
winterization process also offers an opportunity to inspect
items like lines, floatation devices, flares, fire
extinguishers, etc., for wear and tear and possible
replacement.

Propeller

This is also a good time to check your boats propeller and
hub. Bent or nicked propeller blades will diminish
performance. The hub may also be have sustained extensive
wear. If this type of damage is apparent, replace the
propeller and make any necessary repairs during the
winterizing process.

Clean, Clean, Clean

Clean the boat thoroughly inside and out. If you store your
boat with dirt, scum, barnacles and the like on the
exterior, these impurities will be even harder to remove in
the spring. After the exterior of the boat has been cleaned,
apply a quality polish to the exterior surfaces to create a
protective barrier against dirt and dust. Clean the
interior, including all timber, vinyl and carpet.

To help keep your boat free from mildew, you may wish to
install a dehumidifier or use a moisture absorber. Turn any
cushions up on edge so that air can circulate around them,
or better yet, remove them from the boat.

Drain and clean the bilges. (If your boat will be stored out
of the water remove all drain plugs and put them in a place
where theyll be easy to find when relaunching your boat in
the spring.) Spray the bilges with moisture displacing
lubricant and add a little antifreeze.

Empty The Head

Pump out the holding tank at an approved facility. While
pumping, add fresh water to the bowl and flush several
times. Use an approved cleaner for your type of system, and
let the solution sit for a few minutes before adding more
fresh water and pumping it out again. Add antifreeze and
pump the coolant through the hoses, holding tank, Y-valve,
macerator and discharge hose. Check your owner's manual to
be sure that an alcohol based antifreeze won't damage your
system.

Water Tanks

Drain the fresh water tank and any hot water heater. Isolate
the hot water heater by disconnecting the in and out lines
and connecting them together. Pump non-toxic antifreeze
through the system by turning on all the taps / shower until
the antifreeze starts coming out. Add non-toxic antifreeze
to the water heater.

Put it on Blocks

If you own a trailer boat, consider putting the boat and
trailer up on blocks for winter to take the pressure off the
tires. Inspect the trailer and tires for wear and tear.
Grease the wheel bearings and replace if necessary.

If at all possible, store your boat undercover. If you need
to leave it outdoors you'll require a boat cover. A good
quality 8- to 10-ounce canvas boat cover should be adequate
for most situation. Even undercover the boat should be
covered to protect against dust and dirt, pests and bird
droppings. For extreme conditions you could consider
shrink-wrapping the boat. Do-it-yourself shrink-wrap kits
are available.

Chris Miley is the owner of the websites AllBoatCovers.com
where you can find information on all types of boat covers
and The Pontoon Boat Site for the pontoon boat enthusiast.


November 14th, 2008 |

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